Pearl Appraisals Can Be A Tricky Business: How To Get Your Pearls Appraised Without Getting Ripped Off

Ben Johnson of Seabourn Pearls

If you are investing in fine pearls you should have them independently and professionally appraised for a few reasons.

• To ensure that the pearls you bought are what was represented by the jeweler in the bill of sale.
• To ensure that you paid a fair price so that you can exercise your guarantee if necessary.
• To ensure that you have the necessary insurance in the event of loss or theft.

It is especially important to get an independent appraisal by a qualified appraiser.   It is common practice for jewelers to provide their own “retail” appraisals at 2-3 times the price at which they are selling the item.  This makes customers feel like they are getting a deal.  If these inflated appraisals were real we could go into business buying jewelry and reselling it for twice what we paid.  If you make money with this strategy you will be the first.

At Seabourn Pearls we don’t provide appraisals.  Rather, we give our clients an unconditional money back guarantee and refer them to the national trade associations for professional jewelry appraisers.  Why would you care what I say the pearls are worth?  You want an independent, professional appraisal of your new pearls.  Would you value a car based upon what the dealer tells you it is worth?  When you buy pearls get a detailed bill of sale backed by an iron clad, no hassle guarantee and then get your own appraisal.

Using your appraisal for insurance purposes is a bit trickier. Shocking, I know, because insurance companies usually make things so easy.

Last week I got a call from a client whose husband had bought a rock star strand of fat aubergine Tahitians from me.  These were BAPs (Bad Ass Pearls).  She was excited because the pearls she bought for $8,000 had been appraised for insurance purposes for $18,300.00.  We sell wholesale direct so this is not unusual.

But here’s the thing.  Most jewelry insurance policies allow the insurance company to exercise a replacement option.   The insurance company collects the premium on the appraised value of $18,300.00.  If my client’s house burns down or someone steals her pearls the insurer does not promptly mail her a check for $18,300.00.  Rather, they examine the information provided in the appraisal (and it had better be thorough, detailed and supported with photographs if you expect to get back something close to what was lost) to then source a “like kind” replacement.  And trust me, they know where to buy it for a helluva lot less than 18 grand.

But, if you’re reading my blog, so do you.  What I told my client was this: don’t pay the premium for an $18,300.00 policy if you can buy a “like kind” replacement from SeabournPearls for $8,000.00.  Instead, shop your appraisal until you find an insurer that will sell you a “cash value” policy for $8,000.00.

Here’s what you need to know about pearl appraisals:

• You need a pearl appraisal from the seller like a fish needs a bicycle.  Get your own appraisal.
• You want an independent, 3^rd party appraisal from a qualified professional.  Call the American Society of Appraisers at (703) 478-2228 and ask for a referral to a Master Gemologist Appraiser in your area.  Seabourn Pearls recommends the Jewelry Judge.
• Jewelers sell jewelry.  Jewelry appraisers appraise jewelry.  Selling jewelry does not qualify one to appraise jewelry.
• A proper pearl appraisal provides a complete description of the item including:
  • Type of clasp or setting
  • Whether pearls are natural or cultured
  • Type of pearl (Tahitian, South Sea, Freshwater, etc)
  • Shape (Round, off round, baroque, etc)
  • Color and Orient
  • Luster
  • Complexion (surface quality)
  • Size of pearls
  • For strands, the length, number of pearls, knotted or not, matching
  • Pictures of the item
  • Understand what kind of insurance you are buying.  Most jewelry insurance policies include a “replacement option.”  In effect you buy $20,000 of coverage for something that costs the insurer $5,000 to replace.
  • Buy your pearls wholesale direct from Seabourn Pearls and use your favorable 3^rd party appraisal to buy “cash value” insurance that allows you to pay a lower premium and source your own replacement.

PART III:  Pearls and the Environment

Seabourn Pearls: “So, God, when a gift giving occasion calls for jewelry do you go with diamonds or pearls?”

God: “Pearls.  They’re not called the Tears of God for nothing.  Pearls are born from the sea, bequeathed by a living creature.  Pearls are a reflection of divine creation and beauty.  When a pearl is discovered it is a perfect finished product because that’s how I roll.”

Seabourn Pearls: “And diamonds?”

God: “You’ve got to do a lot of cutting and polishing to make a diamond beautiful.  I created them for their hardness to be used in cutting tools and such.  I’d already created ice and snow. I never thought you people would go bonkers for a colorless rock.  But free will is what free will does.  Next thing I know you’ve got the %$*&#@# DeBeers cartel scarring my beautiful earth with open pit mines, leaching heavy metals into groundwater, inflicting misery on the helpless.  Don’t get me started.”

Seabourn Pearls:  “What about pearls and the environment?”

God:  “Pearling and oysters are a match made in heaven.  Pearl farmers are magnificent stewards of the delicate marine ecosystems in which my pearl producing oysters thrive.  They have to be.  Their livelihood depends on it.  And the oysters themselves are filter feeders that clean the water 24/7.  Just look at the places where my pearls are produced.  French Polynesia.  Palawan Island.  Northwest Australia.  Magnificent natural places, truly some of my finest work.”

Seabourn Pearls: “They are wondrous places.  Thank you.”

God:  “It was my pleasure.  Please take care of them.”

Seabourn Pearls:  “Anything else you care to add?”

God:  “Just a reminder to your readers that pearls are the gentle gem.  If you care about the earth pearls should be your first choice.  If you’re in the market for fine pearls contact my friends at Seabourn Pearls.  I can vouch for the inventory because, well, I made it.  They’ll treat you right, too.  Just tell ‘em God sent you.”

Caveat Emptor When Buying Pearls In China

This week I received two emails about buying pearls in China.  The first came from a guy who spent $1,600.00 for a matching necklace and bracelet of Tahitian black pearls.  When he returned to the States he took them to his jeweler for an appraisal where he was told he’d bought dyed freshwater pearls worth a few hundred bucks.

The second email came from a woman whose daughter was going to China.  She wanted to buy pearls to commemorate the trip and wanted my advice on where to shop.

I’m not eager to give away my contacts and sources.  But buying pearls in China is like buying pearls anywhere else….only more so. You need to:

• Educate yourself on pearl value factors
• Train your eye to recognize luster and nacre thickness
  
• Buy from someone you trust

The last point is the most challenging for the one time visitor who wants to make a purchase.  For every honest broker in China there are plenty of clowns eager to rip you off.  The guy who bought the Tahitians in China has no recourse now that he’s discovered his pearls are frauds.   If he’s like most men, the sting of being played a fool will last far longer than the pain of losing a grand or two.

The advice I gave the woman boldly asking for my sources is what I tell anyone going to China:

• Buy Chinese freshwater pearls only
• Stay away from Tahitian, South Sea and investment pieces
• Find something inexpensive that you like
• If you don’t spend a lot of money you can’t lose a lot of money

Lastly, if you want to take the risk out of buying pearls buy from a knowledgeable source that backs your purchase with a guarantee.  At Seabourn Pearls we offer more than the world’s finest pearls at wholesale direct prices.  We offer peace of mind.

If you’re in the market for fine pearls visit our gallery or contact us today.  We look forward to serving you.

Ben Johnson - Lousy Photographer

I’m a lousy photographer.  And that’s a good thing, especially if you’re buying pearls from Seabourn Pearls.

I shoot pictures of our pearls using my IPhone.  We lay them on a white pad and fire away using natural light from the office windows.  No fancy staging, props or back lighting.  As Dragnet may have said, “Just the pearls, m’am.”

Sure, you’ll see some shadows and the the focus can be less than perfect in places.  But what our pearl pictures lack in technique and execution is made up with Maine honesty and earnestness.  What you see is what you’ll get when our pearls arrive at your door.  Our pictures aren’t perfect, but they aren’t hiding anything either.  Moreover, not hiring a professional photographer saves us money — savings we pass along to our savvy customers.

We freely admit that our photos often suffer by comparison to some of the art directed, glossed over beauties you might see elsewhere.  But our pearls play second fiddle to nobody.  And we back that promise with an unconditional 90-day money back guarantee that is the best in the business.

Check us out.  I may have a lousy eye as a photographer.  But I can spot a killer pearl from 20 paces.

If you’re in the market for beautiful pearls please call or contact us.  Our pictures may be lackluster.  But our pearls are anything but.

Ben Johnson of Seabourn Pearls

These articles will help you determine if pearls are real or fake.  They’ll teach you how to recognize quality and how to buy smart.

The links below take you to the first five articles in the series.

Part I: The tooth test and other tools, tips and tricks for knowing if a pearl is real or fake.

Part II: The importance of luster and nacre thickness in determining high quality pearls that stand the test of time.

Part III: Understanding pearl value factors and how slight grading differences mean big differences in price.

Part IV: Pearl Processing, Artificial Enhancements and Deliberate Misrepresentation

Part V: Dye Jobs and Color Enhancements

Part VI – Sellers love to give faux, fake and imitation pearls misleading names.  These names are often branded and are given to disguise the product and confuse consumers about what they are buying.  This list and some of the information contained is borrowed from The Pearl Book by Antoinette Matlins.  Antoinette’s book is one of the most authoritative publications on pearls.  If you love pearls buy it.

Atlas Pearls -  These are polished satinspar gypsum beads.  They are fake pearls in every way and should not to be confused with pearls from Atlas South Sea Pearl Ltd., an Australian company that produces South Sea pearls.

Cave Pearls

Cave Pearls – Cave pearls are kind of cool.  They’re formed in limestone caves when calcite crystallizes around a grain of sand or some other nucleus.  Water rotates the nucleus to allow concentric coatings of calcite.  The “pearl” sinks and is polished to a gloss by a steady flow of water.  Cave pearls lose their gloss and degrade or fall apart when removed from water.  A neat little novelty but not worth much.

Kultured Pearls – Krab with a “K” is usually pollock formed and colored to look like real crab.  Guess what “Kultured Pearls” are?  If you said fakes, bully for you!

Laguna Pearls – Not to be confused with the reputable Beverly Hills retailer by the same name, be aware of a line of fake pearls marketed under this name.  They should be identified as “imitation pearls.”  If they are not the seller is being deceptive.

La Tausca Pearls – La Tausca Pearls date back to the early 1900′s.  They are imitation pearls that became well known for their presentation boxes.  The boxes were usually silk-lined brass with fancy scroll, flower and filigree engravings and adorned with fake gems, rhinestones or shell cabachons.   The boxes are typically more valuable than the pearls and fetch prices up to about $300.  The pearls look old and can be convincing but La Tausca Pearls are fake.

Majorica Pearls – Majorica or Mallorca Pearls are glass beads with a lacquer coating that features ground fish scales.  The glass gives these “pearls” a convincing weight and coolness.  Marketing efforts surrounding these products are deliberately deceptive.  They can be rather nice but should always be rather inexpensive. Read more here.

The REAL Thing. 32" Strand of 12x13MM Natural Color Tahitian Pearls. Round, Near Flawless. $23,000

Nautilus Pearls – Most “pearls” sold as Nautilus Pearls are the polished shell from the innermost chamber of the Nautilus mollusk.  They may also be sold as “Shell Mabe” pearls.  There are, however, rare and valuable true Nautilus pearls that are very white calcium accretions.  The best have a sort of concave eyeball shape with a flame pattern on the surface.  If your eye can’t tell the difference your wallet will know instantly.

Red Sea Pearls – Polished beads made of coral

South Ocean Pearls – These are imitation pearls with a mother-of-pearl core.  In my experience “pearls” sold under this name tend to be marketed in extremely shady and deceitful ways.  If I was naked with my hair on fire and the guy selling these pearls had a blanket and a fire extinguisher I would still run out of the store.

Semi-Cultured Pearls – Lousy pearls coated in a pearlescent lacquer.  Costume jewelry.

For more information on pearls – real or fake – contact us at anytime.  We’d be thrilled and delighted to help you.

Ben Johnson of Seabourn Pearls

Buying pearls from an unknown source can be a tricky business. Of course you want to be sure you’re not buying fake pearls at real pearl prices.  But you also want to be certain you’re not paying top dollar for low quality pearls.

This is the fifth in a series of articles to help you spot fake pearls. More important, this series will help you understand how pearls are valued and how dishonest producers and brokers dress up inferior pearls to fetch premium prices.  Here in Part V we discuss dyeing and other color treatments for pearls.

To access the first four articles in the series click the links below.

Part I: The tooth test and other tools, tips and tricks for knowing if a pearl is real or fake.

Part II: The importance of luster and nacre thickness in determining high quality pearls that stand the test of time.

Part III: Understanding pearl value factors and how slight grading differences mean big differences in price.

Part IV: Pearl Processing, Artificial Enhancements and Deliberate Misrepresentation

Dye Jobs and Color Enhancements

Bleaching — For centuries white pearls from the Persian Gulf, Japan and elsewhere have been bleached.  Back in the day bleaching meant laying the pearls on a carpet and setting them out in the sun.  The pearls and carpet were then rotated at regular intervals over a period of weeks to develop a whiter, more even color on the pearls.

Japanese Akoya Pearls - 8X8.5MM - White with Rose Overtone. Bleached. Note the mirror luster. $2,500.

Bleaching is still common today in white or silver tone Akoya and freshwater pearls (I am not aware of any South Sea pearl producers that bleach their pearls). Now days, however, pearl whitening is done using chemical bleach rather than sun exposure.  This treatment is common and not harmful unless the pearls being treated are low quality, short harvested specimens with thin nacre.  Still, any bleaching treatment must be disclosed by the seller so inquire about it at the time of purchase.

Bleaching can result in pearls that are too white verging on opaqueness.  To add vitality some producers “pink” their pearls by soaking them in a reddish dye that imparts a soft, rosy overtone.  “Pinking” is relatively easy to detect by examining the drill holes under magnification.  A pearl that has been pinked will most often have red spots inside the drill hole.

Dyed Pearls to Create New Colors — Certain producers and retailers now offer a wide variety of pearls in fashion and designer colors.  Generally speaking, these suppliers buy up poor quality pearls that exhibit inferior color and luster.  These are nearly valueless pearls that tend to be stained, spotted and blemished.  The pearls are then dyed in any color you can imagine.  I’m not a big fan of designer color pearls.  To me dyed pearls lack all the nuance and allure of the genuine article and tend to look like Mardi Gras beads.  But if you want  pearls that are purple and green, turqoise and orange or red, white and blue then dyed pearls are for you.  Just be sure you don’t pay much for them.

Dyed Pearls in Fashion Colors. You Be The Judge.

Remember, fine pearls need no enhancement.  You can bet a cherry red or dark copper pearl has a face that requires a lot of make-up.  Be aware of the marketing language that accompanies dyed pearls.  When you hear things like “color enhanced” and “tint adjusted” know that you are being sold dyed pearls that aren’t highly prized.

Shady Monkey Business — There are several color enhancements out there that are deliberate attempts to rip you off.  Caveat Emptor!  Here they are:

Dyed Nucleus — Some producers have created “black” pearls by dyeing the shell bead nucleus a black color.  This is typically done on Akoya oysters, which have a natural nacre color that is most often silvery to grayish blue.  The resulting pearls are generally in the 8-9MM size range.  The colors can be very convincing and the subterfuge very hard to detect.

Heating and Irradiation — Certain heating techniques have emerged that can impart a fine golden color on dull and otherwise low quality white South Sea pearls.  Irradiation techniques have also arisen to transform stained, spotted and otherwise poor-color South Sea pearls into convincing imitations of Tahitian black pearls.  Both  techniques are difficult to detect so we recommend you make any major purchase of golden or black South Sea pearls contingent upon a corroborating lab report.

Silver Nitrate – Certain Chinese producers have been known to use silver nitrate solution on crummy, off-color pearls to create pearls that look like prized Tahitian pearls.  Silver nitrate is highly damaging as it literally softens the nacre.  Run screaming from any pearls that have been treated in this way.

If you like dyed pearls feel free to buy them.  But don’t bust out your wallet and splurge.  Dyed pearls are costume pieces and you should buy them on the cheap. Fine pearls are beautiful, natural things that need no enhancement.

If you have any questions about pearls please contact us at anytime.  For a glimpse of our $5M inventory of the world’s finest natural color pearls please visit our gallery.  Seabourn Pearls, the world’s finest.

Ben Johnson of Seabourn Pearls

This is Part IV of our series on how to tell if pearls are real or fake.  Of course, knowing that much is only the first hurdle when buying fine pearls.  While some people still get swindled buying fake pearls represented as real far more consumers are taken for a ride buying lousy pearls represented as high quality gems.

To access the first three articles in the series click the links below.

Part I: The tooth test and other tools, tips and tricks for knowing if a pearl is real or fake.

Part II: The importance of luster and nacre thickness in determining high quality pearls that stand the test of time.

Part III: Understanding pearl value factors and how slight grading differences mean big differences in price.

How To Tell If Pearls are Real Or Fake: Part IV

Here in Part IV of our series we discuss the artificial enhancements and deliberate misrepresentations dishonest pearl brokers and suppliers use to rip off unsuspecting and uninformed pearl shoppers.

Since the dawn of time any human enterprise in which goods are exchanged for currency has attracted charlatans, swindlers and frauds eager to separate the unwitting from their cash.  And pearls are no exception.  A fine pearl is a work of natural art that needs no improvements. Pearls may undergo one or more of the following processes at harvest:

1. Routine Processing
2. Not So Routine Processing
3. Artificial Enhancement
4. Deliberate Misrepresentation

Natural Color Freshwater Pearls in 13X16MM sizes

Routine Processing

All pearls at harvest undergo harmless routine processing. Pearls are tumbled in a drum of warm soapy water and a mild abrasive (usually  salt) to remove odors and slimy residue.  For a fine pearl this is all the processing required.

Chemical bleaching is a common practice with white Akoya pearls (either Japanese or Chinese) and white freshwater pearls.  Bleaching is done to make the pearls whiter and more uniform in color.  As long as the pearls have a thick coating of nacre chemical bleaching is not harmful.  However, the treatment must be disclosed by the seller.

Not So Routine Processing and Artificial Enhancements

There are a number of techniques used by dishonest producers to mask the deficiencies of low quality pearls.  The good stuff requires no enhancement. But sleazy farmers are not shy about putting lipstick on their pigs.  Here are some of the techniques suppliers use to steal your money:

Excessive Tumbling – Some producers will aggressively tumble pearls to improve the shape or to remove imperfections or spots.  Depending on the exact technique the process may remove a little or a lot of nacre.  Not good.

Waxing - Some producers will tumble pearls in a drum loaded with a mixture of soft wood chips soaked with hot beeswax.  This process puts a waxy coating onto the pearls that creates the illusion of luster.  But it’s a luster that won’t last.

Buffing - Some producers use physical or chemical buffing procedures on pearls to remove blemishes, improve shape and increase the surface shine.  By definition these techniques remove nacre and that is never good.

Lacquering - Some producers will use a concoction of epoxy and ground fish scales to coat pearls.  This adds a bright surface shine that may or may not last.  But it does not add value to the pearl and if the treatment is not disclosed it is criminally dishonest.

Filling - Sophisticated fillers have been developed that can blend into the natural nacre of a pearl.  Some producers and brokers will use them to fill cracks, pits and other blemishes to improve the surface quality of a pearl.  Use of these compounds reduces the value of a pearl and must be disclosed.

Dyeing and Techniques To Enhance Color - Dyeing and coloring is a huge topic.  I’ll cover it completely in the next blog.

10X12MM Natural Color Drop Circle Tahitian Pearls. 18" Strand $1,700 - $1,900

Deliberate Misrepresentation

The deliberate misrepresentation of pearls is a problem.  Most commonly it involves a lack of disclosure about pearls that have been treated or enhanced in some way so that the unwitting consumer pays top dollar for low quality merchandise.  I have met dozens of people who went to Asia or Polynesia and bought what they thought were amazing pearls at an amazing price only to find out they got beat.

Here are the most common types of misrepresentation:

• Selling Color Treated Pearls as Natural Color Pearls
• Non-Disclosure of Bleaching Treatments
• Selling Off-Round Pearls as Rounds
• Overstatement of Nacre Thickness
  
• Using Mountings and Findings to Hide a Pearl’s Imperfections as to Shape or Complexion
• Non-Disclosure of Lacquering, Waxing and Other Surface Enhancements
  
• Non-Disclosure of Fillings and Repairs
• Misrepresenting Cultured Pearls (Especially Keshis) as Natural Pearls
• Selling Artificial Pearls as Cultured Pearls

The surest way to get the best deal on the best quality pearls is to buy from a trusted broker who deals exclusively in pearls.  If you’re in the market for fine pearls please contact us or poke around our online gallery.  We’re always delighted to share our knowledge and passion for pearls so contact us at anytime with your questions and inquiries.  Thanks.

Ben Johnson of Seabourn Pearls

How can you tell if pearls are real or fake?

More to the point, whether real or fake, how can I make sure I’m paying a fair price for the pearls I’m buying? These series of blogs is intended to give you the information you need to buy pearls like a pro.

Part I discusses the tooth test and other techniques for spotting fake pearls.

Part II explains why nacre thickness and luster are essential factors to a quality pearl with lasting value.  It describes the calculated risks pearl farmers must take to produce quality pearls and why you must avoid short harvested pearls.  Finally, it shows you how to recognize pearls with thick nacre and fine luster.

Here in Part III we address other value factors you must consider when buying pearls.  The critical concept to keep in mind is how subtle differences in specific value factors result in significant differences in price.  Understanding these factors enables the smart pearl shopper to make small compromises to get the biggest bang for their pearl dollar.  Not understanding them makes you vulnerable to overpaying.

Understanding a pearl’s value is tricky because, unlike diamonds and colored gems, pearls do not have a universally accepted grading system.  When valuing pearls the value factors to consider are:

1. Luster and Nacre Thickness (See Part II of this series)
2. Shape
3. Size
4. Complexion
5. Color

Shape – Pearls come in six primary shapes:

• Round
• Off-Round
• Button
• Oval
• Drop/Pear
• Baroque
• Circle or Circlet

Lustrous South Sea pearls in baroque, circlet and round shapes (photo: Paspaley)

All other factors being equal round pearls are the most expensive with prices falling as you move down the list.  Be especially wary of paying round prices for off-round pearls. Certain ring, pendant and earring settings can hide imperfections in the shape and complexion of a pearl.  This is great if you have an off round pearl with blemishes on one side that you want to set into a ring.  But if you are buying that same pearl ring and paying a round price for the gem then you are getting beat.  Making compromises on shape is often the best way to get a great deal on pearls as baroque and more natural shapes can be very interesting and alluring — especially in a high quality pearl with dazzling luster.

Size Matters

Pearls are sorted by the half millimeter or the millimeter.  The size of a graduated strand of pearls will be represented by the smallest and largest pearls in the strand, say 10X12MM.  The size of a uniform sized strand or a pair of stud earrings will be expressed as 8X8.5MM.

It is important to understand the typical size range of specific types of pearls. Most Akoya pearls are under 8MM.  Once you hit the 8MM threshold Akoya prices jump significantly.  Nine and 10MM Akoya  pearls are huge but on the small side for Tahitian and South Sea pearls, the bulk of which are grown in the 8 to 12MM range.  Be wary of any South Sea pearls under 8MM.  At 12MM prices start to rise sharply and black and South Sea pearls 13MM and beyond are rare and pricey.  Any high quality pearl north of 16MM will be pricey indeed.  For freshwater pearls size is also indicative of price but the price increases that attach to size are more gradual.  Again, all other

Sorting Tahitian pearls by size using a sieve (Photo: Perles de Tahiti)

factors being equal the larger the pearl the more expensive.

Complexion

The complexion or surface quality is critical to understanding value.  Clean pearls may have a pinprick blemish here or there but are almost perfect. Lightly blemished pearls will have more and perhaps somewhat larger blemishes.  And a blemished pearl will have more pronounced markings still.  Again, how you choose to set a pearl can hide certain imperfections.  But be wary of buying a clean pearl with a significant blemish hidden behind a cap on an earring or pendant or on behind the mounting of a ring.

Color

Color has comparatively little impact on value. There are some 178 possible colors in a Tahitian pearl but only 60 are common.  So, yes, a perfectly matched strand of rare pistachio pearls of flawless complexion and large size will fetch a premium.  And deep gold South Sea pearls will always command a price.  But, for the most part, buy what you like.  Just make sure the color is natural.  Dyed pearls (more on these in Part V) cost a fraction of the price for natural color.

Please post your questions and comments.  Take a look inside our online gallery at some of our finest quality pearls available for sale.  Please don’t hesitate to contact Seabourn Pearls directly if we can be of any service.  We’re always happy to share our passion and knowledge for pearls.  Thanks for visiting.

How To Tell If Pearls Are Real Or Fake: Part II

In a previous blog I identified some specific tests and techniques for determining if pearls are real or fake.  I also argued that the more important skill is understanding the value factors for pearls and training your eye to recognize quality.  In the end, pearl buyers lose more money buying lousy pearls at inflated prices than fake pearls sold as the genuine article.

It’s fine to ask “Are these pearls real?”  But the more important question is probably, “Are these pearls really good?”

Judging Pearl Quality: Nacre Thickness and Luster Reign Supreme

A thick nacre coating is the ultimate value factor for a pearl.  A pearl with thick nacre will withstand the rigors of time and wear.  Thick, well aligned layers of nacre are also the source of a pearl’s luster. But bringing lustrous, thick-nacred pearls to market is a high-stakes game of chance that rivals any roll of the dice in Vegas.

Pearl farmers gamble with their livelihoods with each and every crop.  The longer a pearl is cultured inside an oyster the thicker the nacre layers become. But a pearl oyster suspended in the briny depths is susceptible to blights, disease, typhoons, tsunamis and a myriad of other natural disasters that can wipe out a harvest in a flash.

Thick Nacre: The Luster Never Lies

In addition, the longer a pearl stays inside an oyster (or mussel) the more opportunities nature has to wreak its special havoc on the final product.  Bear in mind that the market puts the highest value on top quality round pearls.  When the mollusks are nucleated pearl farmers use   a perfect round shell bead.  The more time a pearl stays inside the animal the more likely it is to deviate from roundness and to take on less desirable attributes related to color and complexion.

The farms that culture the finest pearls in the world take the greatest risk by leaving their oysters to soak for the longest time, often 2-3 years.  Other producers are more risk averse.  They try to minimize any variables and often “short harvest” pearls after only a few months.

Average culturing time has dropped from 18 months 20 years ago to only 8 months today.  “Many pearls are now sold with nacre so thin they won’t last any time at all,” writes Antoinette Matlins in her definitive guide, The Pearl Book.   “Others have somewhat thicker nacre, and look better, but still won’t stand the test of time.”

Culturing time and nacre thickness is an especially important consideration when buying Japanese and Chinese Akoya pearls. The cold water environments s and slower metabolisms of Akoya oysters mean it produces nacre at a much slower rate than the warm water oysters that produce South Sea gold and black pearls in places like Australia, Indonesia and French Polynesia.  “Short Harvested” Akoya pearls are a real problem in the marketplace.  Black pearls, too, have been problematic.  Until a few years ago when export controls were instituted black pearls with thin nacre flooded the market.  These inferior Tahitian pearls are still circulating and buyers should beware.

To be sure you’re getting pearls with thick nacre, when buying here’s what to look for:

• Luster and Orient – Pearls with sharp, bright intense luster and/or an iridescent play of color across the surface (aka “orient”) will have thick nacre.  Avoid pearls that appear dull, milky or chalky.
• Cracking and Peeling – Thin nacre pearls are prone to cracking and peeling even when new.  Look at the pearls closely – especially near the drill hole.  If you see any signs of cracking or peeling run for your life and find another dealer.
• Banding and Winking – Shine a bright light on the pearl.  If it “winks” or you notice banding from within you’re seeing through the nacre to lighter or darker shades on the bead nucleus.  This is a sure sign of a thin pearl and a good time to shop elsewhere.
• Drill Hole – Use a magnifying loupe to carefully examine drill holes.  When examining the drill hole the nacre layers will be lighter than the bead.  If they look terribly thin then you should move on.

Fine pearls are not cheap.  The best way to buy quality and avoid rip-offs is to buy from a knowledgeable, trustworthy dealer who provides a written guarantee of quality, provenance and satisfaction.  If you are in the market for fine pearls please contact Seabourn Pearls.  Or take a look around our online gallery.  We’d be pleased and honored to assist you.

Pearl Monument in Bahrain’s Pearl Roundabout and the History of Pearling in Bahrain

Ben Johnson of Seabourn Pearls

As Bahrainis gather in the city of Manama’s Pearl Roundabout many have wondered, “What’s up with that cool monument?”

I’m glad you asked.  The huge sculpture at the center of roundabout is called The Pearl Monument.  It comprises six dhow “sails” soaring into the heavens with a huge pearl cradled at their zenith.  Dhows are the traditional sailing vessels of the region, used for eons to ply the waters of the Gulf in search of pearls.  The sails represent the six countries of the Gulf Cooperation Council, or GCC, (Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates) while the pearl symbolizes their shared heritage and history

For centuries pearls were the lifeblood of the Gulf economy and Bahrain stood at its center.  Translated from Arabic the name Bahrain means “two seas,” so named for the Persian Gulf and the natural freshwater springs that feed it from the sea floor near this island nation.  These uniquely rich, warm waters are prime habitat for oysters and many regard the pearls produced here as the finest in the world.

Pearl diving and trading in Tylos (the name of Bahrain from antiquity) dates back to at least the 3rd century B.C. and probably much earlier.  The century from 1830 to 1930 was the apex of Bahrain’s pearl economy.  During that period as many as 30,000 divers worked the oyster beds and some 35,000 tons of oysters were harvested each year.  At that time Bahrain supplied 80-90% of the world’s natural pearls.

The Pearl Monument in Bahrain

The 1930′s marked a precipitous decline in the fortunes of Bahrain’s pearl industry.  The Great Depression smothered global demand while a wave of more affordable cultured pearls flooded the market to further soften prices.  In 1932 Bahrain’s enormous oil reserves were discovered and pearl divers and others working the dhows and oyster beds rushed to participate in the oil boom.  Water pollution from oil spills and overfishing took a heavy toll on the once pristine waters of the Gulf.

Today, pearl diving in the Gulf is practiced mainly as a hobby.  Still, Bahrain has taken steps to preserve its pearling history and heritage.  The Ministry of Tourism maintains the Museum of Pearl Diving.  The government has also preserved a stretch of coastline once favored by pearling dhows and it is restoring a group of historic buildings to create a kind of historic pearling village.

And Bahrain remains an important trading center for natural pearls.  In 1928, in an effort to protect the country’s natural pearl industry, the Government of Bahrain banned the importation of cultured pearls.  Today, Bahrain is home to a number of key players in the international marketplace for natural pearls.

So the next time you see Bahrain’s Pearl Monument on the news you’ll know all about it and the rich pearling history of the Persian Gulf.

Have you got anything to add?  Please submit your comments or questions below.

For more information about pearling and pearls of any kind please contact Seabourn Pearls.  We offer the world’s finest cultured pearls wholesale direct to the public. Quality, provenance and satisfaction guaranteed.