How To Tell If Pearls Are Real Or Fake: PART II
How To Tell If Pearls Are Real Or Fake: Part II
In a previous blog I identified some specific tests and techniques for determining if pearls are real or fake. I also argued that the more important skill is understanding the value factors for pearls and training your eye to recognize quality. In the end, pearl buyers lose more money buying lousy pearls at inflated prices than fake pearls sold as the genuine article.
It’s fine to ask “Are these pearls real?” But the more important question is probably, “Are these pearls really good?”
Judging Pearl Quality: Nacre Thickness and Luster Reign Supreme
A thick nacre coating is the ultimate value factor for a pearl. A pearl with thick nacre will withstand the rigors of time and wear. Thick, well aligned layers of nacre are also the source of a pearl’s luster. But bringing lustrous, thick-nacred pearls to market is a high-stakes game of chance that rivals any roll of the dice in Vegas.
Pearl farmers gamble with their livelihoods with each and every crop. The longer a pearl is cultured inside an oyster the thicker the nacre layers become. But a pearl oyster suspended in the briny depths is susceptible to blights, disease, typhoons, tsunamis and a myriad of other natural disasters that can wipe out a harvest in a flash.
Thick Nacre: The Luster Never Lies
In addition, the longer a pearl stays inside an oyster (or mussel) the more opportunities nature has to wreak its special havoc on the final product. Bear in mind that the market puts the highest value on top quality round pearls. When the mollusks are nucleated pearl farmers use a perfect round shell bead. The more time a pearl stays inside the animal the more likely it is to deviate from roundness and to take on less desirable attributes related to color and complexion.
The farms that culture the finest pearls in the world take the greatest risk by leaving their oysters to soak for the longest time, often 2-3 years. Other producers are more risk averse. They try to minimize any variables and often “short harvest” pearls after only a few months.
Average culturing time has dropped from 18 months 20 years ago to only 8 months today. “Many pearls are now sold with nacre so thin they won’t last any time at all,” writes Antoinette Matlins in her definitive guide, The Pearl Book. “Others have somewhat thicker nacre, and look better, but still won’t stand the test of time.”
Culturing time and nacre thickness is an especially important consideration when buying Japanese and Chinese Akoya pearls. The cold water environments s and slower metabolisms of Akoya oysters mean it produces nacre at a much slower rate than the warm water oysters that produce South Sea gold and black pearls in places like Australia, Indonesia and French Polynesia. “Short Harvested” Akoya pearls are a real problem in the marketplace. Black pearls, too, have been problematic. Until a few years ago when export controls were instituted black pearls with thin nacre flooded the market. These inferior Tahitian pearls are still circulating and buyers should beware.
To be sure you’re getting pearls with thick nacre, when buying here’s what to look for:
- Luster and Orient – Pearls with sharp, bright intense luster and/or an iridescent play of color across the surface (aka “orient”) will have thick nacre. Avoid pearls that appear dull, milky or chalky.
- Cracking and Peeling – Thin nacre pearls are prone to cracking and peeling even when new. Look at the pearls closely – especially near the drill hole. If you see any signs of cracking or peeling run for your life and find another dealer.
- Banding and Winking – Shine a bright light on the pearl. If it “winks” or you notice banding from within you’re seeing through the nacre to lighter or darker shades on the bead nucleus. This is a sure sign of a thin pearl and a good time to shop elsewhere.
- Drill Hole – Use a magnifying loupe to carefully examine drill holes. When examining the drill hole the nacre layers will be lighter than the bead. If they look terribly thin then you should move on.
Fine pearls are not cheap. The best way to buy quality and avoid rip-offs is to buy from a knowledgeable, trustworthy dealer who provides a written guarantee of quality, provenance and satisfaction. If you are in the market for fine pearls please contact Seabourn Pearls. Or take a look around our online gallery. We’d be pleased and honored to assist you.