How To Tell If Pearls Are Real Or Fake: Part III
Ben Johnson of Seabourn Pearls
How can you tell if pearls are real or fake?
More to the point, whether real or fake, how can I make sure I’m paying a fair price for the pearls I’m buying? These series of blogs is intended to give you the information you need to buy pearls like a pro.
Part I discusses the tooth test and other techniques for spotting fake pearls.
Part II explains why nacre thickness and luster are essential factors to a quality pearl with lasting value. It describes the calculated risks pearl farmers must take to produce quality pearls and why you must avoid short harvested pearls. Finally, it shows you how to recognize pearls with thick nacre and fine luster.
Here in Part III we address other value factors you must consider when buying pearls. The critical concept to keep in mind is how subtle differences in specific value factors result in significant differences in price. Understanding these factors enables the smart pearl shopper to make small compromises to get the biggest bang for their pearl dollar. Not understanding them makes you vulnerable to overpaying.
Understanding a pearl’s value is tricky because, unlike diamonds and colored gems, pearls do not have a universally accepted grading system. When valuing pearls the value factors to consider are:
- Luster and Nacre Thickness (See Part II of this series)
- Shape
- Size
- Complexion
- Color
Shape – Pearls come in six primary shapes:
- Round
- Off-Round
- Button
- Oval
- Drop/Pear
- Baroque
- Circle or Circlet
Lustrous South Sea pearls in baroque, circlet and round shapes (photo: Paspaley)
All other factors being equal round pearls are the most expensive with prices falling as you move down the list. Be especially wary of paying round prices for off-round pearls. Certain ring, pendant and earring settings can hide imperfections in the shape and complexion of a pearl. This is great if you have an off round pearl with blemishes on one side that you want to set into a ring. But if you are buying that same pearl ring and paying a round price for the gem then you are getting beat. Making compromises on shape is often the best way to get a great deal on pearls as baroque and more natural shapes can be very interesting and alluring — especially in a high quality pearl with dazzling luster.
Size Matters
Pearls are sorted by the half millimeter or the millimeter. The size of a graduated strand of pearls will be represented by the smallest and largest pearls in the strand, say 10X12MM. The size of a uniform sized strand or a pair of stud earrings will be expressed as 8X8.5MM.
It is important to understand the typical size range of specific types of pearls. Most Akoya pearls are under 8MM. Once you hit the 8MM threshold Akoya prices jump significantly. Nine and 10MM Akoya pearls are huge but on the small side for Tahitian and South Sea pearls, the bulk of which are grown in the 8 to 12MM range. Be wary of any South Sea pearls under 8MM. At 12MM prices start to rise sharply and black and South Sea pearls 13MM and beyond are rare and pricey. Any high quality pearl north of 16MM will be pricey indeed. For freshwater pearls size is also indicative of price but the price increases that attach to size are more gradual. Again, all other
Sorting Tahitian pearls by size using a sieve (Photo: Perles de Tahiti)
factors being equal the larger the pearl the more expensive.
Complexion
The complexion or surface quality is critical to understanding value. Clean pearls may have a pinprick blemish here or there but are almost perfect. Lightly blemished pearls will have more and perhaps somewhat larger blemishes. And a blemished pearl will have more pronounced markings still. Again, how you choose to set a pearl can hide certain imperfections. But be wary of buying a clean pearl with a significant blemish hidden behind a cap on an earring or pendant or on behind the mounting of a ring.
Color
Color has comparatively little impact on value. There are some 178 possible colors in a Tahitian pearl but only 60 are common. So, yes, a perfectly matched strand of rare pistachio pearls of flawless complexion and large size will fetch a premium. And deep gold South Sea pearls will always command a price. But, for the most part, buy what you like. Just make sure the color is natural. Dyed pearls (more on these in Part V) cost a fraction of the price for natural color.
Please post your questions and comments. Take a look inside our online gallery at some of our finest quality pearls available for sale. Please don’t hesitate to contact Seabourn Pearls directly if we can be of any service. We’re always happy to share our passion and knowledge for pearls. Thanks for visiting.