This is Part IV of our series on how to tell if pearls are real or fake.  Of course, knowing that much is only the first hurdle when buying fine pearls.  While some people still get swindled buying fake pearls represented as real far more consumers are taken for a ride buying lousy pearls represented as high quality gems.

To access the first three articles in the series click the links below.

Part I: The tooth test and other tools, tips and tricks for knowing if a pearl is real or fake.

Part II: The importance of luster and nacre thickness in determining high quality pearls that stand the test of time.

Part III: Understanding pearl value factors and how slight grading differences mean big differences in price.

How To Tell If Pearls are Real Or Fake: Part IV

Here in Part IV of our series we discuss the artificial enhancements and deliberate misrepresentations dishonest pearl brokers and suppliers use to rip off unsuspecting and uninformed pearl shoppers.

Since the dawn of time any human enterprise in which goods are exchanged for currency has attracted charlatans, swindlers and frauds eager to separate the unwitting from their cash.  And pearls are no exception.  A fine pearl is a work of natural art that needs no improvements. Pearls may undergo one or more of the following processes at harvest:

1. Routine Processing
2. Not So Routine Processing
3. Artificial Enhancement
4. Deliberate Misrepresentation

Natural Color Freshwater Pearls in 13X16MM sizes

Routine Processing

All pearls at harvest undergo harmless routine processing. Pearls are tumbled in a drum of warm soapy water and a mild abrasive (usually  salt) to remove odors and slimy residue.  For a fine pearl this is all the processing required.

Chemical bleaching is a common practice with white Akoya pearls (either Japanese or Chinese) and white freshwater pearls.  Bleaching is done to make the pearls whiter and more uniform in color.  As long as the pearls have a thick coating of nacre chemical bleaching is not harmful.  However, the treatment must be disclosed by the seller.

Not So Routine Processing and Artificial Enhancements

There are a number of techniques used by dishonest producers to mask the deficiencies of low quality pearls.  The good stuff requires no enhancement. But sleazy farmers are not shy about putting lipstick on their pigs.  Here are some of the techniques suppliers use to steal your money:

Excessive Tumbling – Some producers will aggressively tumble pearls to improve the shape or to remove imperfections or spots.  Depending on the exact technique the process may remove a little or a lot of nacre.  Not good.

Waxing - Some producers will tumble pearls in a drum loaded with a mixture of soft wood chips soaked with hot beeswax.  This process puts a waxy coating onto the pearls that creates the illusion of luster.  But it’s a luster that won’t last.

Buffing - Some producers use physical or chemical buffing procedures on pearls to remove blemishes, improve shape and increase the surface shine.  By definition these techniques remove nacre and that is never good.

Lacquering - Some producers will use a concoction of epoxy and ground fish scales to coat pearls.  This adds a bright surface shine that may or may not last.  But it does not add value to the pearl and if the treatment is not disclosed it is criminally dishonest.

Filling - Sophisticated fillers have been developed that can blend into the natural nacre of a pearl.  Some producers and brokers will use them to fill cracks, pits and other blemishes to improve the surface quality of a pearl.  Use of these compounds reduces the value of a pearl and must be disclosed.

Dyeing and Techniques To Enhance Color - Dyeing and coloring is a huge topic.  I’ll cover it completely in the next blog.

10X12MM Natural Color Drop Circle Tahitian Pearls. 18" Strand $1,700 - $1,900

Deliberate Misrepresentation

The deliberate misrepresentation of pearls is a problem.  Most commonly it involves a lack of disclosure about pearls that have been treated or enhanced in some way so that the unwitting consumer pays top dollar for low quality merchandise.  I have met dozens of people who went to Asia or Polynesia and bought what they thought were amazing pearls at an amazing price only to find out they got beat.

Here are the most common types of misrepresentation:

• Selling Color Treated Pearls as Natural Color Pearls
• Non-Disclosure of Bleaching Treatments
• Selling Off-Round Pearls as Rounds
• Overstatement of Nacre Thickness
  
• Using Mountings and Findings to Hide a Pearl’s Imperfections as to Shape or Complexion
• Non-Disclosure of Lacquering, Waxing and Other Surface Enhancements
  
• Non-Disclosure of Fillings and Repairs
• Misrepresenting Cultured Pearls (Especially Keshis) as Natural Pearls
• Selling Artificial Pearls as Cultured Pearls

The surest way to get the best deal on the best quality pearls is to buy from a trusted broker who deals exclusively in pearls.  If you’re in the market for fine pearls please contact us or poke around our online gallery.  We’re always delighted to share our knowledge and passion for pearls so contact us at anytime with your questions and inquiries.  Thanks.

This entry was posted on Thursday, April 7th, 2011 at 12:18 pm and is filed under Uncategorized. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.